LA COLECCIÓN BAUHAUS : UN HOMENAJE A LAS MUJERES.

THE BAUHAUS COLLECTION:A TRIBUTE TO WOMEN.

The Bauhaus collection is the first of the brand and the starting point of the development of theinterchangeable concept. The avant-garde that was the design of the Bauhaus movement is what I wanted to transfer to the world of jewelry trying to createan innovative concept that did not exist until now.

It's about apersonal tribute to the Bauhaus school so referenced and known in the world of design that leadsinspiring me as an architect since I started my studies.

This tribute is dedicated in particular to thewomen a little more forgotten.

They enrolled attracted by the promises of equality in the brochures of the most progressive school of the time. Over time, instead, they faced an ambiguous attitude on the part of the teaching staff and, in most cases, invisibility and lack of public recognition of their work.

Each jewel set in the Bauhaus collection refers to one of them and their work.

Women dancing

These women were trained in theBauhaus. The superior design school founded by Walter Gropius in 1919, which in its 14 years of life and thanks to the talent of its community,would lay the foundations of the modern movement and industrial design. All of them led an intense creative and professional life in those years in which they struggled at the same time not to be relegated only to the sphere of family and home. They would make tapestries and photographs, design pieces of furniture, modern design objects, avant-garde ceramics, interior design projects, and some would even become architects.

I'm going to tell you a little about each of these women who have inspired me so that you can better understand the origins of this collection.


Alma Siedhoff-Buscher.

Alma, like almost all women, began her studies at the Bauhaus in the weaving workshop, but later her heart called her to switch to the carpentry shop where she carried out the works for which she is mostly recognized as this wonderfulboat building game for children that continues to be marketed today. For children or adults !, because I love it..

Imagine it on a shelf in your living room.

 

Our Alma Set is an abstract interpretation of this game with pieces floating on top of each other as if we were composing these ships.

   

 See soul set here:https://carambeljewels.com/products/set-alma

 

 

Marguerite Friedlaender-Wildenhain

Marguerite enrolled in thepottery workshop. In 1929, he reached the Bauhaus goal of mass-produced ceramics, launchingfunctional products and cheap with the slogan 'porcelain for the new home'. Perhaps due to the success, despite his Jewish ancestry, he was able to continue producing during the Nazi period, erasing the surname from public papers, of course.

 

And this is the Marguerite model from our collection:

   

 See set marguerite here:https://carambeljewels.com/products/set-marguerite

 

 

Marianne brandt

Marianne discovered the Bauhaus school through the 1923 exhibition, and in that same year she entered. During his years at school, he would stand out above many of his male companions, even collaborating with himself.Walter Gropius in his architecture studio and designing some of the best pieces in the history of the school.

It was another of thebrave womenwho ignored recommendations to attend certain workshopsmore feminine and struggled to enroll in themetal workshop in which the majority were men.

Always designuseful, practical and precious objects like this coffee and tea set that, due to its amazing modernity, continues to be marketed.

 

 

 My little tribute is reminiscent of those perfect hemispherical shapes of his pieces and it is also just as useful and precious!!

 

 

 See Marianne set here: https://carambeljewels.com/products/set-marianne-doble

 

Anni albers

Anni came to the Bauhaus with the intention of becoming a painter, but discovered that with thethreads and scraps The textile workshop had everything he needed to express his endless creativity. Anni is one of the best known within the Bauhaus women's group for her wonderfulcompositions of colors and patterns in her tapestries and also because she was the first textile artist to individually exhibit her works at the MoMa in New York!!

Here we have her weaving in the Bauhaus workshop.

 And my little tribute made with the geometric shapes most used in his textile compositions, the wonderful Set Anni.

 

   See set Anni here: https://carambeljewels.com/products/set-anni

 

 

Gunta Stölzl

Gunta is another character that I love within the Bauhaus school and one of the decisive ones for the fate of the textile workshop, since became director of the workshop when women still did not agree to these positions.

She was a great creative and very organized that managed to carry thehandmade textiles to an industrialization process more typical of the time, turning the workshop into a laboratory where they experimented with all kinds of new techniques and materials.

Unfortunately Gunta had to resign from her position forced by the then director of the school, Mies Van der Rohe due to harassment by Nazi sympathizers within the Bauhaus since she was married to the Jewish architect Arieh Sharon.

Here you have some images of his work, which were very funny because they had a lot of movement, and were not restricted to linear geometric compositions.

 

Our Set that bears his name refers to these changes of rhythm and colors so pronounced in his work by mixing the two tones of metal.

¡The large earrings and silver diamonds will give you a special light and aura!

 

  

 See Gunta set here: https://carambeljewels.com/products/set-gunta

 

Otti Berger

Otti was a Croatian Bauhaus artist whose artistic and creative potential was largely shaped in the textile workshop. She was a disciple of Gunta Stolzl when she ran the workshop, and although Otti managed the workshop independently and organized her own educational program within it, she was never awarded the title of officer director. Mies van Der Rohe, the new director, entrusted the direction to Lilly Reich who was his mistress and Otti became his alternate.e.

But with all your knowledgeleft the Bauhaus and opened his own textile workshop with which he made successful collaborations with textile companies of the time.

 

 

In 1936 she was banned from working in Germany due to her Jewish origins, and she was forced to close her company. It was in this period that most of the Bauhaus professors, including her boyfriend Ludwig Hilberseimer, managed to obtain visas and go to the United States. Otti Berger tried to do the same sincein 1938 László Moholy-Nagy invited her to join the New Bauhaus in Chicago. Looking for work and waiting for a visa, he spent time in London.

Due to her mother's illness and the inability to find work in England, she did not speak the language and had hearing problems that made it even more difficult for her to learn, in 1938 she was forced to return to Croatia. Unfortunately, in April 1944 she was deported to Auschwitz along with her family, and died there.í.

Thanks to his spectacular work, his memory is eternal, since he left us wonderful works like these that today inspire designers from all over the world, including myself.

See Otti set here:https://carambeljewels.com/products/set-otti

 

 

 Lilly reich

One of the first measures thatAdolf hitler took as chancellor of Germany was the closure of the Bauhaus.

The last director of the Bauhaus, Ludwing Mies van der Rohe, faced pressure from censorship and he tried to transfer the school from Weimar to Berlin, with a more conservative teaching system to satisfy the authorities.

But despite all efforts the school was forced to dissolve into1933 and Miesemigrated to the United States leaving thousands of drawings and sketches in Germany that would have been lost in the bombings had it not been for Lilly.

She made possible the Mies Van der Rohe archive that MoMa keeps today. She collaborated with him on all of his creations for many years and they were associated with a romantic relationship but is rarely cited as a co-author of the designs.

He collaborated with Van der Rohe in the design of the Barcelona Pavilion and La Casa Tughendat, both considered masterpieces in the world of architecture.

Barcelona Pavilion

Lilly inherited Mies's architecture studio in Berlin when Mies emigrated to the United States, and during the war she worked astextile engineer.

During his artistic career he worked in all areas of designfrom fashion to architecture, was director of the Buahaus textile workshop and unrecognized co-author of many pieces of furniture from the time of her union with Mies.

The Lilly set from our collection reminds us of its modernity, the balance of architecture and the use of stone as the main decorative element.

 

 See Set Lilly here:https://carambeljewels.com/products/set-lilly

 

 

Gertrud ardnt

Gertrud isone of the funniest characters from this Bauhaus era, it was famous for itsartistic self portraits in which she dressed in different ways and posed for the camera.

¡What we know from today's influencers, but with a much more artistic touch!

 

Gertrud was a strange girl. She cut her braids, became a vegetarian, and took on the stigmata of gender.

She longed to be an architect, but ended up in Bauhaus Fabrics, the Vorwerk firm would manufacture a carpet of hers in 1994, until she married the architect Alfred Arndt, appointed by Hannes Meyer head of the Interior Design workshop, and dedicated herself to making what we would call todays selfies with different costumes.

He focused on his two sons and, only after Arndt's death,in 1976, she was rediscovered as a great photographer.

Our Gertrud set is the one with the most combinations of different positions! so you can take thousands of different artistic selfies just like Gertrud you darees?

 

See Set Gertrud here:https://carambeljewels.com/products/set-gertrud

 

Benita Kotch Otte

Benita Koch-Otte was one of the most talented students at the Bauhaus weaving workshop andone of the most important modernist weavers in Germany. From 1925 he directed the weaving studio at the Burg Giebichenstein School of Arts and Crafts in Halle.

At the Bauhaus it wasclose friend of Gunta Stölzl, with whom she became one of the most outstanding students of the textile workshop and later innovative instructors.

 

With the coming to power of the National Socialist Party, Benita and her husband, the Czech photographer Heinrich Koch, had to abandon their educational jobs and moved to Prague where her husband died in a traffic accident.

Benita Koch-Otte returned to Germany, wherehe dedicated himself to teaching art therapy classes for the disabled and chronically ill in a foundation until he retired in 1957.

Benita's work is mainly characterized by the game ofgeometric combinations of squares and rectangles that inspired me to design the set that bears his name.

see the Benita set here:https://carambeljewels.com/products/set-benita

 

 

Sonia Delaunay

Sonia Delaunay 1885-1979 was an artist who firmly believed thate art had the power to change society invading society itself. 

Sonia waspainter, fashion and interior designer, and textile artist at the Bauhaus. She differed from the work of her husband Robert Delaunay in the use of color and with his imaginary more linked to German expressionism.

Together they carried out a large number of decorative projects that give the impression that even they themselves would have found the idea ofcompetition in the couple. Something very extraordinary before, but also now.

Sonia Delaunay painted, designed interiors and fabrics, made covers for books, posters, wallpapers, tableware, cushions, rugs, theater and film costumes, and created her own trademarks. Sonia was a very active woman who did not allow herself to be defeated by the cruelty with which the twentieth century beat the backs of its subjects. Sonia was an artist who placed all her trust in the power of color and to whom she devoted all her energies..

 

 

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1 comment

Magnífica colección Carmen. Una inspiración sutil, elegante y de especial delicadeza.
Fuentes de traza arquitectónica muy bien plasmadas en tus joyas.
Enhorabuena!!

ANTONIO GUEDAN PECKER

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